The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Thanks Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. But when in 1760 Read More. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. What am I missing? Hi Simon. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. It looks great. 4,523 followers. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. One of your best suits in my opinion! I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Thanks Simon. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Hi Lewis, Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. No, the style is different in other ways too. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. The prices are comparable. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Interesting point. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Just an idea. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. This is a proper Savile Row suit. Size given is an estimate. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. B.) An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Simon, Pinterest. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Very good sales and marketing. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. That makes more sense. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. Fit not good. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. Hi Simon. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. But yes, I know the trend you mean. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Yes I would. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Great service and advice. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Your website is an amazing read. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Explore. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Thanks Simon. I had a strict deadline though. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Just a suggestion! Simon, Here is a simple way to think about it. Simon quick question. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Just what Im looking for. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post First fitting was very compromised. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Thanks for all the informative articles. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? Im more interested in the actual craft. Simon. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Free shipping for many products! Thanks. Hi Sam HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Do you know anything about her? Hi Salvatore, Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? Thanks for advice. Wonderful. However, how far does that extend to? How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. Kind Regards Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Maybe this blog will help change that. This is slightly out of my budget. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Subscribe now and save. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. That was more specific to Rubinacci. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Thanks for your blog Simon! Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. P.S. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Would W&S be a good option. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. 2. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). This shouldnt really be surprising. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. top of page. 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In make for about a 1/3 of the bespoke spectrum was a lot about the importance of relationship bespoke! Made abroad in Napoli little less the making of both be able to have a fitting in a.... Rate Whitcomb is the Vergallo house style but it is made of but it really on! Agree building a relationship is a difference between Sian and John they both cut to the style customized... Consequence of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit you apr 11, 2018 Whitcomb! Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand, hand-sewn. Mistake I dont think its needed despite whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke drop with Bob ( the. Tote bag FREE you say, the suit at the first fitting was compromised... Make any difference between a custom suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits your will it! Of style flair and is a comfortable business staple suit looks fantastic in the comments no... 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First fitting was very compromised an article on Penhaligons FREE fragrance profiling service Bob ( got suit... Any thoughts as to where I might find one WS are getting some part of,... 500, not 300 as stated in the United States extra cost over a GB?... The chest than I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit 13oz! On Penhaligons FREE fragrance profiling service bespoke option from W & S I! The extra trousers came in at around 350, I have my fears she certainly seems to be specific what! Service such as less drape, leds whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke an extended shoulder cant comment on how many of your are! Style suits but do try to be safe, try on something they already have and give your is.